Nicaragua is one of those special (still-somewhat-undiscovered) magical destinations whispered about by your intrepid friends. Verdant jungle and tropical forests border sparkly emerald coasts, hidden beaches and secret coves. Jaguars roam free and monkey's holler (or howl as it were) from the tree tops. Dusty, dirt roads lead to magical empty shores of pink sand and intricate pastel se shells litter the beaches.
This was our second visit to Nicaragua - the first was almost 6 years ago when our boys were wee. We fell in love then, and it took us a few more years to plot our return which was then thwarted by Covid. We finally made it back this Spring and it was all we had recalled and so much more. Verdad Nicaragua had been on our radar for the past few years as a sort of anti-resort. The type of place people come to go off the grid and recharge, but with a side of adventure. Run by an amazing couple from Montauk, their thoughtful touches can be seen and felt throughout the property and your stay.
SERVICE
Service is relaxed but attentive. The team at Verdad ensure every guest gets the exact experience they are desiring. If a full itinerary is your thing there is no shortage of activities or adventures to fill your day. We loved how adaptive the service felt. Some days we just wanted to chill with books on the beach or by the pool, but when inspiration struck, the team quickly assembled surf lessons, horse back riding through the jungle as well as an afternoon in town (San Juan del Sur). When we got up extra early to surf, the kitchen prepared an additional breakfast for us - it's always the little things!
VIBE
Barefoot bohemia. Think homemade meals around a communal table, an honour bar for cold beers by the pool and a library full of books to enjoy in a hammock by the sea or while dozing in a sun bed. Verdad is truly the antidote to a busy lifestyle lived in the fast lane. One of the staff told us that it often takes their guests a day or two to unwind upon arrival. The pace of life here is like a shock to the system of any A-type. With only 8 rooms & casitas you'll feel less like a customer and more like a guest in a private hideaway.
ACTIVITIES
I was so thrilled that my boys were finally at an age/stage where we could plan adventures as a family and not have to worry about nap time or lugging around a stroller. I have been wanting to plan a family surf trip since my babies were in diapers (clearly that was not the ideal time). Verdad offers incredible one on one surf instruction for all levels (and ages). If I was a bit more serious (and had a bit more time) I would have participated in their fully customizable Escuela de Surf program where the curriculum takes students through a daily breakdown of form thanks to video recordings taken by the team on the surf safaris, as well as coaching on and off the board (fine-tuning of form, wave reading and etiquette for the newbies). We all improved so much after just a few days of instruction and riding super fun waves at various breaks around the area. If surfing isn't your thing, there are also miles and miles of hiking trails, mountain biking, horseback riding, zip lining (definitely doing this next time!), deep sea fishing, snorkelling or just being a beachbum and enjoying the almost-empty shores of Playa Escameca, down a dirt path from Verdad.
ROOM
The entire property is 100% solar powered and the Balinese-meets wabi-sabi casitas are definitely my top choice for style and sensibility. Designed to welcome the warm tropical off-shore breeze to keep the heat out, but even the well-placed ceiling fan won't take the edge off that humidity during the month of March when temps reach high 90's on the daily. You might be happier in one of the smaller pool rooms that come with AC. They also have one duplex room which has a lower twin bed room and an upper king for mom and dad. Note: the stair access to come up and down is actually outside so might not be suitable for wee ones.
GETTING HERE
There are two ways to get to Nicaragua these days, both end up being about the same time door-to-door. The first involves flying directly to Liberia International Airport in Costa Rica and traveling overland with a private transfer (this can be easily arranged by Verdad - or feel free to reach out and I would be happy to help get you booked and sorted). The second option is to fly into Managua, Nicaragua's bustling capital, with a quick and painless stop-over in San Salvador via Avianca. From here a transfer to Verdad is about 3 hours.
HEAD INTO TOWN
You would be remiss not to visit the bohemian backpacker haven of San Juan del Sur at some point during your holiday. Sandy roads full of scooters and Toyotas, small bars teeming with young folk just off the beach drinking cold Toña's, some of the best gelato outside Italy, cute vegan cafes, a harbour full of fishermen, cool surf cafes and vibes galore.
DINING
We opted for the full board which included a tasty and very hearty morning breakfast spread as well as a candlelit communal dinner. The aromas wafting out of the kitchen in the late afternoon would draw us up to the open air living room in time for a pre dinner aperitif as we anticipated the continually impressive nightly menu. Even the boys would be salivating and excited about what would be served. They gobbled up every dish every day (and always saved room for the delightful housemade desserts). Lunch is served at the basic (but cool) beachside restaurant - tostones, ceviche, grilled fish and fresh tacos were our go-to's with a fresh jugo de maracuya.
