WHY WE LOVE IT HERE | A feast for the senses, the colours, cuisine and castle-like cathedrals make this unesco world heritage town a manageable family-friendly affair - full of unconventional fun and traditional experiences.
BEST TIME TO GO | The beauty of SMA (as the locals call it), and one of the reasons it is such a playground for visitors, is that the weather is just so ideal. While the days can be hot (especially in April & May), the evenings and nights are generally cool (in the winter months even requiring a warm jacket). There are so many cultural celebrations, traditions and happenings throughout the year, you’ll always find an excuse to visit. Details here
LAY OF THE LAND | With streets warmed by streams of endless sunshine and cobblestones polished by time and use, SMA is said to be built upon magical quartz crystal, it is absolutely brimming with creativity, colour and synchronicities. Get ready to welcome some magic during your stay!
WHAT TO PACK | Comfortable footwear - sneakers or Birkenstock’s are my go-to’s. The cobblestones and uneven terrain make it too difficult to bother with dainty sandals or anything without a rubber sole. Layers are the key to your comfort. While the days can reach 100 degrees in the Spring months, with warm evenings, the rest of the seasons are predictably cool evenings once the sun slips away. Pack a leather jacket, sweaters/cardigans/blazers. Layers to put on and remove as the day warms and cools.
TIPS | Per the above, the cobbled streets are not the easiest place for navigating a stroller. A baby carrier might be easier. If you really can’t get around without it, then make sure you have an off-road or jogging stroller for this journey.
Elevation in SMA is over 6,000 feet so be sure to hydrate starting a few days before you arrive and be sure to pack hydration tablets (plus adult/children's tylenol or advil just in case). I also try not to drink alcohol for the first few days (if at all) as I am so sensitive to it - especially if coming from sea level.
GETTING HERE: Whether you fly into Mexico City (3-4 hrs drive), Leon (1.5 hrs) or Querétaro (1 hr 45 mins) this is the car service used by locals for transfers to and from. You can request a private car/van or take your chances on a shuttle where you are bound to meet other interesting travellers or residents. Bajiogo
SLEEP
Casa de Sierra Nevada, A Belmond Hotel, San Miguel de Allende - Luxurious service in a historical property. The very first five star hotel in San Miguel. It was formerly an Orient Express. Their Junior and full Suites have plenty of room for a family. Our boys loved our Deluxe Studio Suite overlooking the main courtyard with a bonus small private plunge pool on our terrace. You can read our Hotel Hot Take here.
Rosewood San Miguel - for traditional luxury but still with a sense of time and place. It hits all the marks for a family with interconnecting room options, large room and suite footprints, views, cribs, rollaways, a kids club, family-friendly dining and more.
Hotel Matilda - a boutique hotel set amidst art-filled walls and an amazing spa that has the Conde Nast stamp of approval. We also love booking a beautiful meal at their award winning restaurant, Moxi.
Hotel Casa Blanca 7 - a historic noble home with grand arches, open air breezeways, old-timey keys on tasseled chains and the most extraordinary bathroom I have ever enjoyed in a hotel! NB: All rooms are King beds only and therefore work best if your child still fits in a pack'n'play or you travel with a toddler bed.
Numu - brand new in town with a convenient location across the street from The Rosewood. A boutique property with an eye to design. A gorgeous courtyard restaurant and small rooftop pool for guests to enjoy.
Please reach out if you need help deciding on and booking a stay in San Miguel or curating a full custom itinerary. [email protected]
EAT: BREAKFAST
Aside from the incredible breakfasts offered at all the aforementioned hotels, we also love starting our mornings in any of these fine establishments:
Posada Corazon - everything comes from their organic garden and hen coop. Reservations are a must. This is one of our families most treasured morning rituals. They even have a little play kitchen and stock of toys for little ones. If you time it right there may also be a live pianist or harpist on site.
Elgolped Vista - epic views of the Parroquia and looking over San Miguel while you enjoy your first meal of the day.
Cafe Rama - a San Miguel institution, our family has been coming here since inception. The walls are adorned with colorful art, on a cool day the wood fire place is burning in one of the dining rooms. They serve all three meals with aplomb.
Mi Bistro 300 - A bright and airy Mediterranean-Mexican bistro tucked behind an artfully graffitied wall off Quebrada. The menu offers something for everyone - but the standouts are their smoothies and egg dishes.
Rustica - Fresh farm to table fare served in a bright and rustic dining room or on the sun dappled terrace. Every item on the menu is craveable!
ENERGIZE
Hike up to the many view points around town or play a game of pickup on the huge basketball court at Parque Juarez. Our kids love the playground at this very local parque that also has picturesque trails for strolling. I walked both my babies around these paths for many naptimes over the years.
SNACK
Amorino - for proper Italian gelato located in the well-curated Doce 18 shopping center
Moöss Frozen Atelier - for soft serve in a surprisingly contemporary all-white space set in a historic building.
PLAY
Head to El CharcoIngenio for a walk around the inspiring botanical cactus gardens. Be sure to try the lavender & 
ice cream and the sculptural slide near the maze.
Pencil balloons in the Jardin or Plaza Civica - we have been doing this since the boys were wee and it's still one of the first things they want to do when we arrive in town. The balloon sellers can usually be found throughout the day but sunset is always a fun time to gather in the square and it's proved to be the ideal formula for getting the sillies out before dinner and bedtime.
EAT: LUNCH
Street tacos at the corner of Calle Ancha de San Antonio & Calle El Cardo
Luna de Queso - what started as a cheese and specialty foods boutique many years ago has evolved into an architectural building on the edge of town with an eye towards design and the same great food they got their start serving. Be sure to save room for their house made desserts and coffee served in their bakery and be sure to pop into the gourmet grocery/gift shop on your way out.
FROLIC
Just roaming the magical cobbled streets, basking in the endless sunshine, fragrant smells and the ever-present sounds of music and laughter is a feasts for every sense and a joy to experience. There are endless boutiques to visit, cafes to dine and drink in, and so much street life to be enjoyed.
SMA is built on the edge of an extinct volcano that hasn't erupted in 1,200 years. Thanks to the subterranean volcanic activity, the countryside surrounding the town is full of healing thermal waters and hot springs. Take a $10 cab ride outside of town to one of the invigorating thermal hot springs in the region. The locals love La Gruta. Our go-to is Nirvana Hot Springs where you can book a spa treatment and lunch and then enjoy the pools throughout the day. We always talk about taking the kids to Xote (think thermal baths with waterslides! You definitely need to be in the mood;)
CAFFEINATE
Xacinto - coffee bar and comfort food in a stylish setting
Lavanda Café - The lavender latte is the must-order here but they also serve up a nice breakfast an lunch
K'ibok Coffee - organic coffee and bakery
Café Oso Azul - coffee shop and restaurant
Inside Cafe - Kiwi-owned cafe serving arguably the best coffee in San Miguel. Also be sure to pop by for breakfast lunch or dinner as well. Their menu is a true delight for all three meals.
Pano at Doce18 for coffee and treats
INSPIRE
Take a painting class or art workshop with the incredibly talented Ricardo Ortiz. A mexican artist and teacher who keeps a studio right in the heart of San Miguel. Our boys spent several hours intently working away on their canvases with Ricardo's expert guidance both works of art now proudly hang on our walls.
Learn to make a mojiganga with Hermes. My dad is close friends with the Arroyo family, well known in San Miguel and beyond for their incredible paper-mâché works of art, known as, Mojigangas. Emblematic of San Miguel de Allende, these iconic characters are an important part of Mexican folk art. Guests of Casa de Sierra Nevada can work with Hermes Arroyo and his team to learn the step-by-step process in creating their very own mini Mojiganga at his studio in Casa Parque.
Take a pottery class at Barro Clay Studio. Adria Calaresu is an accomplished expat sculpture artist who will gently guide and encourage you with your chosen project.
EAT: DINNER
Hecho en Mexico - attracting mostly gringos, this institution has been serving up fine & fresh Mexican fare since the early 90’s. A courtyard setting with a cute pocket-sized bar in the front, from which to enjoy a shaken margarita as a precursor to your enchiladas if you must wait for a table.
The Restaurant - another San Miguel bastion, helmed by Canadian chef, Donnie Masterton. Their Thursday burger night is legendary. Be sure to make a reservation and save time to grab a drink in their adjacent bar after your meal.
Tostevere - newish to the SMA dining scene and causing quite a stir. Tapas served in a small, dimly lit dining room with crave-worthy cocktails, well curated wines and beer to accompany a menu full of savory delights.
Prime Steak House - if you have littles in tow there is no better dining experience in SMA. The setting is sophisticated with meandering outdoor gardens and elevated indoor seating. While you enjoy a glass of wine your children will be well cared for in their adorable kids club. Staffed with caregivers, toys and activities, you can collect them when their food arrives and take them back once they finish their meal.
Bocaciega - With a bright and appetizing Mediterranean menu and a clean aesthetic, the service is top notch and the dining room is chic and welcoming. Wine list is mostly Mexican and the cocktails are delectable.
DATE NIGHT
SUNDOWNERS:
Tunki Rooftop at Casa de Sierra Nevadais a partnership between Handshake, one of the 'Worlds Best Bars' and the Belmond. You can expect quintessential San Miguel views from this pretty perch, paired with Peruvian small plates and cocktails of the likes you have never tasted before. Our personal favourite haunt.
Quince Rooftop - great for people watching and sunset chasing
Rooftop at Casa No Name - be sure to make a reservation. An intimate design-forward boutique hotel with a vibey pequeño rooftop bar - open Tues-Sat nights.
Atrio Rooftop - modern decor, killer views, elevated small plates perfect paired with a tipple.
Luna Rooftop at The Rosewood is a must for sweeping views and a delicious tapas-style menu to accompany hand-crafted cocktails and exceptional Mexican wine.
After drinks at any of the above, head to dinner at Bocaciega - my current favorite restaurant in San Miguel. Greek-inspired cuisine, excellent service all in a welcoming architectural dining room.
Or try Aperi - ask for the chef's table for a world class experience dining with the chef's tasting menu in their cocina.
SHOPPING
There isn't a visit to SMA that passes by without a pop-in at Mixta, an eclectic design store with globally and locally sourced goods. Always the best curation of elevated souvenirs, artisan-made jewelry, clothing, art and home goods.
Be sure to head to the local Artisan Market for handmade crafts from all over Mexico.
Tao Studio - a luxury studio gallery showcasing unique objects made by Mexican master artisans
Mercadosano - organic health store market - come on Saturdays for additional stalls and live music
Kuna Galería- In a town full of incredible art galleries, this contemporary one stands out for their selection of Mexican artists as well as their welcoming space
Wabi Studio - for incredible contemporary home goods and pieces of art
Doce 18 - for a collection of micro boutiques from independent Mexican designers. Also some cute spots to eat and drink too
Mercado Collective for unique Mexican, Moroccan and Tropical finds. Such a fun shop to explore
