WHY WE LOVE IT HERE | There’s just something about Mexico City. It’s not charming like Venice, exotic like Marrakech or romantic like Capri, but it has an allure. There is an energy that is synonymous with the Mexican culture as a whole, but it’s intensified here. Family always comes first and I have always enjoyed watching the multi-generational packs of people gather on weekends in the city’s gorgeous parks to share a meal or a laugh. Food and children are a central part of Mexican culture, so it makes sense that CDMX would make for the perfect family-friendly destination. The city’s colours, smells and the warmth of its inhabitants all contribute to making it one of the world’s emerging cultural centres. Come for the food, the art, the public parks, stay for the youthful energy and the rich culture.
BEST TIME TO GO | One of the amazing things about CDMX is that every season offers something unique and special. Day of the Dead is still high on my list of things I want to experience in the city (Oct). So is Zona Maco and Design Week Mexico (Feb). My favourite month is May, when the days are hot and the nights balmy.
LAY OF THE LAND | A vibrant sprawling metropolis, surrounded by dramatic volcanic peaks. While this city of 21 million is indeed enormous, many of the key family-friendly attractions and charming neighbourhoods mentioned below are surprisingly walkable and clustered. Think of it as a series of interconnected, distinct villages, each with its own character.
WHAT TO PACK | Think versatile separates in linens (for summer visits) and crisp cottons. Light layers are non-negotiable - this desert climate heats up fast when the sun's out. During the winter months a leather jacket is my evening MVP. For footwear, cool sneakers are a must for daytime exploring, while a minimal sandal or loafer works well for nights out. And for the entire crew, stylish sun hats and statement sunglasses are essential.
TIPS | Elevation in Mexico City is over 7,000 feet so be sure to hydrate starting a few days before you arrive and pack hydration tablets (plus adult/children's tylenol or advil just in case). I also try not to drink alcohol for the first few days (if at all) as I am so sensitive to it - especially when coming from sea level. For navigating this immense city, Uber is inexpensive and widely available. For street food choose popular busy stalls where food is cooked fresh and hot. Immerse yourself in micro-worlds. Each of Mexico City's neighbourhoods possess their own distinct personality. Don't try to see everything at once, instead allow yourselves to settle into a few key areas and live like locals.
SOUVENIRS | It would be impossible to leave Mexico City empty-handed. Plaza Ciudadela Market (Balderas 95) is the central market for handicrafts from all over the country. No haggling here (prices are fixed by the government). Be sure to check out small independent boutiques for elevated ceramics, lacquer work in muted tones, artisan-crafted pottery - I adore the Barro Negro (black pottery) from Oaxaca and typical Mexican glass, as well as indigenous Mexican embroidery, beadwork and textiles. Tardan is Mexico’s number one hat maker. This is one of my favorite places to find an authentic souvenir. Also be on the lookout for bespoke leather goods and artisanal silver. Art work always makes an amazing souvenir - anything from Mooni Gallery is a sure bet
SLEEP
Colima 71 is a super stylish boutique property in the heart of Roma that offers family-friendly rooms perfect for a traveling circus.
Sofitel Mexico City Reforma - located in the heart of Mexico City’s historic Reforma district - the convenience for sightseeing is ideal. Our family loved the rooftop pool as a nice little pause in our busy days of walking and doing. They have some suites that can accommodate littles and the skyline views are phenomenal!
Four Seasons Hotel Mexico City Close to Chapuletepec Park, this polished hotel is a standout for the unflappable service and gorgeous public spaces, from the courtyard restaurant to the rooftop pool.
Casona Roma Norte - A new 32 room hotelito filled with art, gastronomy and harmony. Located in Roma Norte, the Balcony Urban View Double accommodates 2 adults and 2 kids.
Casa Polanco - this boutique, art-filled property is located in the heart of the Polanco neighbourhood. A restored residence on a quiet leafy corner, it feels like staying in the home of a stylish acquaintance. A great location for luxury shopping, dining and some amazing museums. Note: some rooms can accommodate up to 3 so not ideal for a family bigger than that.
Hotel Dama - Nestled amongst the tree lined streets of Condesa, hotel Dama is a boutique property in a preserved 1950’s building that maintains the artistic vibrancy of this sweet neighbourhood. Only 3 floors, each with its own unique personality, plus a rooftop terrace draped in Jacarandas. The standard balcony double queen works well for a family with 2 littles.
Please reach out if you need help deciding on and booking a stay in Mexico City or curating a full custom itinerary. Amanda@fora.travel
EAT: BREAKFAST
Panadería Rosetta - we often start our mornings here. A casual coffee and pastry shop by one of Mexico’s most beloved chef’s, Elena Reygadas. The quiche, croissants, jamón on baguette are all equally divine, but the best part is you don’t need a reservation (fans of her always-packed restaurant will appreciate this). The terrace is first come first served but we usually grab our goods to go and head directly to Plaza Rio de Janeiro. It’s a beautiful setting with a huge fountain in the centre and a modest playground that our minis enjoy. It’s fun to watch the city come alive from this vantage point - life begins to spill out into the streets of Roma and we get to feel like locals.
Niddo cafe - Bakery, coffee shop with multiple locations in the city (Polanco, Roma & Juarez) serving vibes and breakfast, lunch & Sunday brunch
If you’re in the mood for a long sit-down brunch (served from 12 - 5:30 PM every Sunday) the offering at the Four Seasons, Zanaya Restaurant, is a holy experience. Multiple stunning food stations from raw bars to salads, seafood, carving stations and elevated local specialties. Pure indulgence.
Ciena is a chic all-day cafe that we particularly enjoy for breakfast, thanks to the dappled morning sunlight that streams through the leafy neighborhood treetops.
Blend Station makes a mean coffee and has a buzzy local morning scene if you prefer a more casual counter service breakfast with a pastry.
ENERGIZE
Frieda Kahlo Museum, Coyoacán. This colonia of Mexico City was once its own outlying village where Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera painted and lived together. Their home (The Blue House) remains almost perfectly intact today and has been preserved as a beautiful museum.
Kidzania, a mini city/theme park catered to mini humans. Children can act out their police, firefighter, chef, race car driver or pilot fantasies in a film-set recreation of a mini metropolis - bonus enrichment points as it’s complete Spanish immersion.
SNACK
Helados Cometa - a sweet ice cream shop in Roma Norte hawking unique flavours made by french-inspired techniques.
Odette - cutie little bakery serving up european-inspired baked good fused with Mexican flavours - two locations (Condesa & Lomas de Chapultapec)
Taqueria El Greco - A Mexican Middle Eastern fusion. This place is an institution. Order the tacos árabes
PLAY
Chapultepec Park, México City’s answer to Central Park, has almost 1700 acres of beautiful forested grounds, playgrounds (Bosque de Chapultepec is our fave), museums, one castle (Castillo de Chapultepec) and even a palace (Los Piños was the former home to El Presidente but was opened to visitors when the former president took power). You could easily spend a full day (or more) here. We love to watch the skateboarders at the skate park, museum hop (Museo Tomayo and the Museo de Arte Moderno are both conveniently located adjacent to one another). Or pack a picnic lunch and enjoy the duck pond. The castle has always been a highlight to my knight-obsessed minis, but the standout is most certainly a visit to Papalote Museo del Niño - they beg for more time here - every time! Book tickets in advance.
For the little archeologists: Museo de Historia Natural is another great family-friendly museum.
EAT: LUNCH
A late and long lunch at Contramar is always a must for our family. Order their famous Mexican Flag charcoal grilled fish and the tuna tostados. The whole menu was inspired by the chef’s family travels to Zihuatanejo which is one of our own most cherished Mexican family beach getaways.
Taquería Orinoco - with multiple locations across the city it’s a must-visit for authentic northern Mexican tacos
Mercado Roma is a former fruit and vegetable market transformed into an architectural collection of micro restaurants all run by some of DF’s top chef’s. Weekdays and weekends it’s full of families and a perfect stop to please multiple palettes thanks to all the booths and variety of cuisines
FROLIC
Coming to Mexico City and not visiting the Centro Historico is like going to Paris and skipping the Eiffel Tower. Full of history and magnificent feats of architecture, it’s worth booking a walking tour to get a historical debrief. This food tour incorporates both and kept our kids engaged & energized.
Local intel alert: take in a birdseye view of the Zócalo (main square of CDMX) from La Terraza del Conquistador.
And to get a true sense of the vastness of this incredible city, the views from atop the Tore Latino Americano building provide a humbling perspective.
If you visit in the winter, skating on the massive ice rink in the Zócalo is a MUST.
Teotihuacán Pyramids: Worth the drive out of Mexico City to see these majestic feats of engineering. Very humbling
CAFFEINATE
Quentin Cafe - a hipster haven of brutalist decor and killer coffee - with multiple locations in Condesa and Roma
Quiasmo Coffee Bar - a hidden gem in Condesa
Amamba - vegan juice & coffee shop in Roma Norte
Cumbé - specialty coffee roaster infused with that unmistakable Australian spirit
Cardinal Casa de Cafe - 100% Mexican coffee beans sourced from Oaxaca and Chiapas located in Condesa
Odette - Bakery and coffee bar with multiple locations around town
INSPIRE
Museums:
Tomayo (in Chapultepec Park - the central park of cdmx) & Museum of Modern Art (across the park from each other so it’s an combination to visit both)
AND another 2 in 1 museum visit...
Museo Soumaya (Carlos Slim's personal collection featuring Rodin's and Dalí's & 20th century Mexican art) is side by side with the contemporary art museum
Fundación Jumex (free Friday’s). The architecture of both these museums are outstanding. They are also next door to one of Mexico Cities fanciest shopping centres.
Roam the leafy boulevards of Colonia Roma and Condesa. Pop into boutiques and cafes at your leisure. In a city overflowing with creative energy, there is always something new to see and experience here.
Or, go see the Luchadores battle it out at Arena Mexico.
EAT: DINNER
Máximo Bistrot marrying a refined French technique with hyper-local, seasonal Mexican ingredients from surrounding farms and waters, chef Eduardo Garcia's daily menu transforms familiar flavours into artful, unexpected dishes.
Sartoria a modern, elevated Osteria in Colonia Roma for when you just can’t eat another taco
Via Sol dumpling and noodle shop with a cozy ambiance serving up Asian comfort food with an inventive flair.
Rosetta helmed by Mexico’s top female chef, Elena Reygadas, serves up inventive dishes with an ever-changing menu of refined Mexican cuisine, deeply rooted in seasonal, local ingredients.
Casa Virginia - set in a gorgeous Roma Norte beaux-art townhouse, expect warm, familial dining with a menu of refined French-Mexican comfort food. It often feels like you are having an elegant meal at a beloved home.
Sesame, a tiny boite in Roma that looks more Parisian than Mexican serving Asian street food (of all things). Cold beer, delicious favours that the whole family can get on board with.
Botánico is a fresh and fun restaurant set amidst what can only be described as a magical garden. The food is bursting with flavour and the indoor-outdoor concept is spread out over two floors with so many comfortable nooks for dining or cocktailing. Kids will love the Dr. Seuss-inspired hanging plants and koi pond full of fish.
DATE NIGHT
The Michellin starred Pujol (pronounced poo-yol) is a must for any self-respecting foodie (sadly, children are not welcome so be sure to get a sitter)
Meroma - Former New York City Chef’s (husband and wife duo) serve guests a bounty of Mexico’s seasonal products from land to sea - all presented exquisitely with their focus on sustainability and heritage. Have a tipple at the open air cafe before being seated in their welcoming second floor dining room
Hiya - vibey wine bar/Japanese speakeasy, serving crudos, small plates and a curious (but delicious) combination of munchies that taste great with wine, sake and their thirst-quenching yuzu lemonade. Don’t miss the fig cheesecake for dessert.
Canopia - off a forested alleyway in Condesa lies this cavelike wine bar serving vino, bites and music from Mexico, Central and South America.
Quintonil - another foodie must. Chef Jorge Vallejo and his team turn out an edible story of Mexico, pushing boundaries and celebrating the countries indigenous ingredients
Honourable mentions to: El Tigre SIlencioso & Marmota
SHOPPING
Casa Bosques - incredible book store in Roma
Mooni Gallery - every spare inch of wall space is covered in work by talented emerging and established Mexican artists
The Erre Vintage - curated classic American vintage
The Happening Store - amazing spot for unique gifts and colourful souvenirs
Lagunilla Market (Centro Histórico, near Glorieta Cuitláhuac) A hagglers' heaven, the city's biggest flea market offers bits and pieces from antiques to collectable bargains, but also a lot of fun junk. Sunday is the best day to go
Plaza Ciudadela Market (Balderas 95) - as mentioned above
