WHY WE LOVE IT HERE | There is a reason the sun-drenched landscapes and hilltop villages of Provence maintain their cult status as a pastoral summer hideaway. The pace of life is slower here, people take small pleasures in the daily rhythms of life. The June strawberries taste like heaven, the cheese oozes just so and the symphony of cicadas immediately transports you into a state of joy and calm.
BEST TIME TO GO | Provence goes into hibernation after the grape harvest. If you’re after the quintessential experience, there is nothing nicer than a summer en Provence.
LAY OF THE LAND | A visit to Provence is not complete without a visit to the lavender fields, the daily marché’s and some slow rosé-fueled lunches. Since this region is overflowing with amazing villages, restaurants, sites and experiences, this guide will focus on one specific region, a l’est d’Avignon (to the East of Avignon) also known as, Le Luberon.
WHAT TO PACK | Bathing suits for afternoons by the pool, lots of linen sets (or better yet, save room in your suitcase to purchase at one of the many marché’s), breezy summer dresses, sneakers or hiking boots for walking & biking (we loved using e-bikes to cover a lot of ground), a nice cardigan or denim jacket for cooler evenings when the sun slips away.
TIPS | Rent a car to truly experience the essence of this captivating region. Take daily village safari’s to visit historical towns, see the numerous marché’s, dine in humble but delicious bistros and cafés, sip ice cold rosé on la terrasse.
SOUVENIRS | Big blocks of Marseille soap, lavender products, linen tea towels, sheets & duvet covers (wish I had bought more on our recent sejour), linen sets for the whole fam, baskets and straw bags, French made sandals & jelly shoes & wine (especially rosé - if you find one you love ship a case back home).
Please reach out to me here if you need help deciding on and booking a stay or planning a full bespoke itinerary for Provence. Perks included at all hotels below (complimentary massages, breakfasts, welcome amenities, upgrades and resort credits)
SLEEP
Capelongue - Out of a Provencal fever dream, this former Domaine is enveloped in lavender fields and dappled by ancient olive trees and cyprus alleys. The quarters are stylish and au current in a palette of burnt umber and golden sunset with lots of natural wood tones. The suites are perfect for a family with a separate living room (pullout for the kids) and bedroom for mom and dad. Our family enjoyed riding the electric bikes to dinner and around the surrounding countryside. Located in the authentic Provençal village of Bonnieux - part of the Petit Luberon and brimming with charm. Don’t miss the market day on Fridays.
Airelles Gordes, La Bastide - Gordes, One of the ‘Most Beautiful Villages of France - This property is quite literally cradled in the 12th century ramparts of this unique village. A former stately home, its charm and elegance welcome guests with comfort and luxury, provind intimate access to the town after hours (once all the tourists have left). Kids will enjoy the in-house Laduree (ours sure did) as well as the feeling of living in a fairytale.
Hotel de Tourrel - While not technically in le Lubéron, the village of Saint Remy is close to Avignon and a worthy part of this itinerary. Hotel de tourrel is located right in the heart of the charming village of Saint Remy. This boutique hotel is nestled in a 400 year old mansion. With only 7 spacious suites that blend historical details with clean and modern design. Enjoy the rooftop pool and terrace with spectacular views over the town and its pretty tiled roofs. Be sure to book a table at the Modern Mediterranean led by Michelin starred chef, Benoit Fauci.
Coquillade Provence Resort & Spa - Gargas, in the heart of Provence, atop a sunny hill, with a view over the Luberon Valley lies this gastronomic, luxury escape (with 2 Michelin keys). Perfect for discerning families who want to delight in all the delicacies of the region while being perfectly situated to explore each day. Exceptional restaurants on site, three heated swimming pools, a vineyard and spa.
Hotel Crillon Le Brave - Panoramic Provençal views and contemporary comforts converge at this cinematic hilltop hideaway. Perched above the rolling hills of Provence, this hotel is a timeless slice of French elegance. With nine resplendent stone houses converted into a contemporary collections of rooms and suites, wake to the scent of fresh lavender on a light breeze over breakfast on your terrace. Be sure to book the courtesy vintage car to take you on a picnic or out for lunch.
Le Domaine du Mas de Pierre - Saint-Paul-de-Vence, set on two hectares of parkland and ancient olive trees, this Domaine overlooks hills and valleys and is on the doorstep of a medieval town on the eastern edge of Provence (just 30 mins from Nice). With a kid and teen club, this property offers multiple family rooms perfect for des familles small or large.
Le Moulin - village life reimagined at this boutique property, a former Mill sitting right across from le Château de Lourmarin and right on the edge of one of the most picturesque villages of the Lubéron. A lovely little pool is perfect for afternoon cool-downs, while the rooms exude Provencal character, the design cues feel fresh and contemporary. They offer a Deluxe Suite Family perfect for up to 2 kiddos on the pullout.
VILLAGES & MARKETS
Depending on where you stay, you can do these in various orders. Consult a map to determine what makes the best sense. You can easily see 1-2 towns per day and it’s lovely if you can time your visits with the local market day (but not necessary for the enjoyment of the towns).
Isle sur la Sorgue: A lovely village built along a meandering river (La Sorgue), sometimes referred to as the Venice of Provence. Known as the biggest antique center outside of Paris, you’ll find many fun and quirky shops full of treasures as well as highly curated collections of sought after period furniture.
Market Day(s): Thursday and Sundays (7AM - 1PM)
Gordes: Arguably the most beautiful village of the Luberon, it sits perched high in the Monts de Vaucluse overlooking the valley floor. Majestic 360 views lend to the feeling of medeival seclusion. Stay right in town at the above mentioned Airelles Gordes, wander the narrow cobblestone streets, grab a macaron (or 5) at Laduree or crème glacé from any of the petit vendors around town. There is also a sweet museum worth the 5 EURO entry price to learn about the caves that exist beneath the entire village.
Market Day(s): Tuesday mornings (8AM - 1PM)
Rousillon: Part of the ‘Plus Beaux Villages de France’, a fairytale of ochre and pastels, atop a steep hill. Stucco buildings with contrasting shutters faded by the sun offer breathtaking panoramic views below. Grab lunch or dinner in one of the sweet restaurants overlooking the valley beneath and watch the swarms of swallows that flutter about at dusk.
Market Day: Every Thursday (9AM - 12PM)
Lourmarin: A dreamscape, disney-like Provançal village with warm limestone buildings, time-worn awnings, welcoming cafes and a real-deal castle. Surrounded by vineyards and orchards, spend time wandering the endearing streets, have a crème glacé from Le Quillé Glacier and dinner at La Louche a Beurre is a pro move (make a reservation).
Market Day: Friday morning (8AM - 1PM)
Bonnieux: A historic “hill village”, dating back to Roman times and bordered by a cedar forest. As the setting for “A Good Year” A Ridley Scott film and even a cameo in a Emily in Paris episode, Bonnieux is a pretty perfect place to enjoy a market morning or dinner with a view.
Market Day: Friday (9AM - 1PM)
Ménerbes: A walled medieval village dating back to pre-Roman times, it is well known as an artists haven, and once home to Picasso’s muse and lover. More vineyards and magnificent views abound, it is a lovely little town to explore.
Market Day: Thursday - small and specialized (9AM - 12PM)
Apt: Bragging rights for having one of the largest weekly markets (operational for over 900 years - it sprawls all throughout the town. This is a great spot to pick up souvenirs, charming straw bags or purses. Roam the polished-by-wear cobblestone streets and sample the local fare. This was where I bought my favourite linens
Market Day: Saturdays - until 12:30PM
Villages Cont'd
Fountaine de Vaucluse: (Spring of Vaucluse) is built upon a mysterious spring (the largest in France) in the valley at the foot of the Vaucluse Mountains. Depending on the time of year, you can experience a waterfall or a deep blue pool at the base of the towering cliffs.
Market Day is in nearby Gordes on Tuesdays so a visit here pairs well with Gordes
Lacoste: An old mountain village overlooking Bonnieux (you can walk from village to village in a mere 45 mins) with two small cafes and a robust art scene. Be sure to earmark an evening of music in the outdoor performance area and stage, L’Espace Cardin, founded by Pierre Cardin. His annual festival in July draws world class Opera, theater and musical performers all showcased in an open air quarry-cum amphitheater.
Market Day: Wednesdays from Oct - Aug
PLAY
Try a tree-climbing Park - "un accrobranche" - with courses suitable for children as young as 3. These aerial obstacle courses, with their rope bridges, zip lines and nets, provide a thrilling and safe way to explore the forest canopy.
Explore the enchanting Cedar Forest of Bonnieux: Nestled atop the Petit Luberon mountain, the Forêt des Cèdres offers an idyllic escape. With various well-marked trails, it's perfect for family walks - discovering the local flair and fauna - and imaginative play and exploration set amidst this magical backdrop.
EAT: LUNCH
Café Gaby - Lourmarin - beloved for its cozy atmosphere and lively village vibe. They offer simple but delicious fare with a focus on fresh, local produce.
Le Saint Hubert - Saint-Saturnin-lès Apt - friendly service and fine food. A lovely terrace with views. The casual atmosphere is welcoming and the seasonal dishes make it a perfect place to enjoy a meal after the village's Tuesday Market.
La Bergerie - with a view of Bonnieux and a menu celebrating the bounty of the terroir of Provence, enjoy wood-fired fare for lunch or dinner. Chef Mathieu Guivarch helms the kitchen.
FROLIC
Step into a colourful wonderland at the Ochre Trails (Roussillon & Rustrel): Discover the the famous Sentier des Ocres in Roussillon and the vibrant "Provençal Colorado" of Rustler. These former ochre quarries boast an astonishing palette of reds, oranges and yellows, making for truly unique and interactive walk. The well-marked trails are easy for all ages and it's so fun to marvel at nature's artistry
CAFFEINATE
Le Comptoir - Lourmarin
Café Gaby - Lourmarin (also great for breakfast or lunch)
Café des Artistes - Lacoste (also good for lunch)
Cafe de France - L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue - a roadside cafe with panoramic views of Lacoste and Bonnieux, good for coffee or a snack
Local bakeries (Boulangeries) - look for a crowd and cafe seating outside where you can watch the world go by
INSPIRE
Cool off at Étang de la Bonde: When the Provençal sun beats down on a hot summer day, there is no where lovelier than a refreshing respite in this natural lake. Littles can splash around in the supervised swimming areas and a playground, while older kids will enjoy paddle boarding, pedal rides around the lake. Bring a picnic.
EAT: DINNER
La Louche a Beurre - a lively and beloved local establishment in Lourmarin. Bistro classics
Le Terrail - located on the main square in Bonnieux, with pleasant outdoor seating on a terrace with a gorgeous view.
La Bastide de Pierres - this charming Italian restaurant in Gordes, sits under a pergola-covered terrace.
La trinquette - historic Provençal charm in Gordes with an intimate terrace.
Le Saint Hubert - in Saint-Saturnin-lès Apt, creative and delicious food with friendly staff. Serves up organic and local cuisine with an excellent view.
Les Voyageurs - also in Saint-Saturnin-lès Apt, a family-owned hotel and restaurant offering a truly local atmosphere.
Restaurant David - Overlooks the stunning ochre cliffs of Rousillon. Tasty food and excellent views.
La Grappe de Raisin - also in Rousillon, a charming French/European restaurant serving affordable lunch and dinner.
DATE NIGHT
L'Auberge de la Fontaine (Lauris) - fine dining set in a beautiful stone building and a lovely terrace. Cuisines is refined Provençal with local and seasonal ingredients, impeccable service.
La Bastinde de Marie (Ménerbes) - ultra romantic and luxe, this wine estate and hotel offers an intimate dining experience amidst the vineyards and beautiful grounds. Pricey but unparalleled.
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